St Martin's Day (Martinje) in Zagreb: Goose, Mlinci and New Wine on 11 November

On 11 November, northern Croatia toasts the moment grape must becomes wine, with roast goose, crisp-soft mlinci and a mock christening in the vineyards. Here is how to celebrate Martinje in Zagreb and the wine hills just outside it.
What Martinje celebrates
Martinje, or St Martin's Day, falls on 11 November. Tradition says this is the day grape must (mošt) turns into wine. In continental Croatia it is a folk celebration. Today it is still the day to taste the new vintage, give thanks for the harvest and eat far more than you planned.
The saint himself was Martin, a bishop of Tours in France. The party belongs to the wine country, and the hills around Zagreb take it very seriously.
The centrepiece is the baptism of the must (krštenje mošta). In the wine hills around the city, the young wine is "christened" in a jovial ceremony modelled on a real baptism. Expect solemn-sounding speeches, a lot of laughter and a glass pressed into your hand the moment the new wine is declared officially born.
The Martinje plate: goose and mlinci
The traditional dish is martinjska guska, Martin's goose, roasted and served with mlinci. In continental Croatia, households roasted the bird whole and turned the giblets into a soup to start the meal, so nothing went to waste.
Mlinci are thin sheets of dried, baked dough. Before serving, they are broken into pieces, softened with hot water and soaked in the fat and juices from the roasting tin. The result is part pasta, part crackling, and it is the reason many locals say the side dish matters more than the bird.
Goose is a once-a-year treat. The everyday Zagreb version is purica s mlincima, turkey with mlinci, which you will find on menus across the city all year. Two places often recommended for it are Stari Fijaker and Gostionica Ficlek. Both are good bets if you want to taste mlinci done properly, though they are known for turkey and we have not confirmed that either will serve goose for Martinje this year.
Where to eat goose in Zagreb in 2026
At the time of writing (early October) most 2026 Zagreb Martinje menus are not yet public. A few tips for finding a good table:
- Watch restaurant Instagram pages from mid-October. Traditional gostionice and restaurants serving continental Croatian food are the most likely to run a goose menu.
- Check the Zagreb Tourist Board at infozagreb.hr for event listings closer to the date.
- Book early, especially for the weekends either side of 11 November. Goose menus are often limited, and some kitchens roast a set number of birds.
- Ask what you are ordering. Some places serve goose by the portion, while others prefer a whole or half bird for a group. A full Martinje menu may include giblet soup, goose, mlinci, red cabbage or salad, and young wine.
Day trip: the Plešivica wine road
The Plešivica wine road (Plešivička vinska cesta) winds through hills around Jastrebarsko, west of Zagreb. By car it is a short trip from the city.
A Martinje visit gives you the new young wine plus a chance to see the region's cellars. Family cellars line the road, many with views back across the vineyards.
For planning, start with the Zagreb County tourist board's page on the Plešivica wine road and the Jastrebarsko tourist board, which announces local wine events. If you don't want to drive after tasting, organised tours from Zagreb that include transport and tastings are available. Otherwise, choose a designated driver, because Croatian roads in November can be dark and foggy by late afternoon.
Day trip: Hrvatsko Zagorje
North of Zagreb, the rolling hills of Hrvatsko Zagorje (Krapina-Zagorje County) celebrate Martinje widely. Towns and villages around Zlatar and Krapina hold their own festivities, and local leaders treat keeping the tradition alive as a point of regional pride.
Zagorje suits a slower day: small family wineries, hilltop chapels, and country kitchens where goose with mlinci feels right at home. The Krapina-Zagorje County tourist board is the best place to look for 2026 Martinje events once they are announced.
When to go: the calendar in 2026
In 2026, 11 November is a Wednesday, and Martinje is not a public holiday in Croatia. Many restaurants will serve goose on the day itself. Village celebrations and cellar events, however, often move to a weekend, most likely 7–8 November or 14–15 November.
If you can only make one trip, aim for a weekend. You'll catch more open cellars, more baptism ceremonies and a livelier crowd. If you're in town midweek, a goose dinner in Zagreb on the 11th itself is the simplest way to mark the day.
Before you set off
- Restaurant menus, prices, cellar opening hours and 2026 event dates had not been published when this was written. Check before you go, ideally directly with the venue or the relevant tourist board.
- Small family wineries often prefer a call or message in advance, even on festival weekends.
- Dress for the countryside: November in the hills means mud, chill and short days.
For background on the baptism ritual and tips on visiting the wine regions, the Croatian-language guide from Turistplus is a useful read.
Leave a Reply